The renaissance of the Buttcrack is here in AVAVAV’s AW22
20 years have passed since The Sun stated that "bums are the new tits". Now, in AVAVAV’s AW22 collection, Creative Director Beate Karlsson is giving new life to the iconic early 2000s fashion statement. This time, we’re not talking about low-rise jeans or sneak peeks of buttocks – it’s time for a full display of your buttcrack-rack.
Previously known for drippy Bloody Finger Feet, wild blowfish-inspired Blowfish Ladies, and the infamous Finger and Claw footwear – AVAVAV are no stranger to introducing bold staples. The AW22 collection, Neo-Nude, intends to disrupt the status quo of exposing body parts and the historically imprinted ideas of heteronormative sexiness within fashion.
“I’ve never designed pieces with the intention of them being sexy, so it felt like a fun challenge to make a collection with this starting point. As the collection took shape, we played with emphasizing what historically has been covered up. For example, we had a lot of fun trying to reinvent the butt-crack as a fashion statement.” says creative director Beate Karlsson.
There are no conventional silhouettes in sight. Neo-Nude features a below-the-bust-deep-neckline top, a low-cut cleavage pant inspired by butt cracks (conveniently named Crack Pant), a Burberry deadstock extravaganza dress with wide hips, a Shibari-inspired cutout dress, and let’s not forget butt crack panties - obviously with a matching long sleeve top. Pair it all with an oversized puffer-hood and -legwarmers and you are good to go.
“Initially, the idea of The Crack Pant was born as an attempt to democratize the bust cleavage. Since the bust and butt cleft looks strikingly similar, it felt like a missed opportunity not to emphasize the latter, especially if you consider that only half of the population has breasts while everyone has a butt.” continues Karlsson
We had the opportunity to interview Beate Karlsson, creative director at AVAVAV:
1- AVAVAV has international reach, and is increasingly being cited on fashion websites, gaining its space and recognition! Did you ever imagine that this could happen?
It’s definitely been an exciting year and we didn’t expect to get so much support from around the world, but we’re super grateful!
2- What do you wish and expect for Avavav in 2022?
We want to grow a platform that allows more and more creative freedom, we don’t necessarily have to be big to do that. But we aim to make Avavav available in more physical spaces.
3- The Neo Nude collection looks amazing! Modern and totally deconstructing standards. Where did the inspiration for this collection come from?
Thank you, I usually create pieces that are influenced by a playful and childish aesthetic, which has grown to be a big part of my “dna” as a designer. For some time, I’ve been wondering about the fascination around nudity and sex and why it has been and still is such a big part of fashion. I wanted to challenge myself and see what happened if I tried to design pieces with the intention of them being “nude” or “sexy”.
4- Breaking standards is always a challenge, but also the reward comes over the years when you realize that you were the forerunner of a path that people admire and are inspired by. Do you think we can already talk about progress in relation to other brands investing in sustainability?
Sustainability is often painted in bright colors through social and alternative media’s lenses as quick and easy to accomplish. In reality, being eco-friendly is a privilege not everyone can afford. You also realize that the industry is very systemized to not be sustainable. Knowledge is key here. Though a lot of new material is being introduced to the public spotlight now, most of them aren’t as eco-friendly as we’d want them to be. For example, vegan leather is mainly plastic which isn’t great. However, I think every brand that makes an effort to be green makes a crucial contribute to the future landscape of fashion and we should honor that.
We try to be as green as we can and Florence happens to have a lot of great resources for deadstock fabric, so it quickly grew part of our process and we try to use it as often as possible.
5- And what would you like to leave as a message for the year 2022 in relation to fashion in general?
Creative freedom and conscious production is the way to go.
All the best,
O renascimento do Buttcrack está aqui no AW22 da AVAVAV
20 anos se passaram desde que o The Sun afirmou que "os vagabundos são os novos peitos". Agora, na coleção AW22 da AVAVAV, a diretora criativa Beate Karlsson está dando nova vida à icônica declaração de moda do início dos anos 2000. Desta vez, não estamos falando de jeans de cintura baixa ou espreitadelas de nádegas – é hora de uma exibição completa de sua bunda.
Anteriormente conhecido por Bloody Finger Feet gotejante, Blowfish Ladies inspiradas em baiacu selvagens e o infame calçado Finger and Claw - AVAVAV, não é estranho introduzir grampos ousados. A coleção AW22, Neo-Nude, pretende romper com o status quo de expor partes do corpo e as ideias historicamente impressas de sensualidade heteronormativa dentro da moda.
“Eu nunca desenhei peças com a intenção de serem sexy, então foi um desafio divertido fazer uma coleção com esse ponto de partida. À medida que a coleção tomava forma, brincamos de enfatizar o que historicamente foi encoberto. Por exemplo, nos divertimos muito tentando reinventar o butt-crack como uma declaração de moda”. diz a diretora criativa Beate Karlsson.
Não há silhuetas convencionais à vista. O Neo-Nude apresenta um top com decote profundo abaixo do busto, uma calça decotada inspirada em fendas nas nádegas (convenientemente chamada de Crack Pant), um vestido extravagante Burberry com quadris largos, um vestido recortado inspirado em Shibari e não vamos esquecer a calcinha de bunda - obviamente com um top de manga comprida combinando. Combine tudo com um capuz de grandes dimensões e polainas e você está pronto para ir.
“Inicialmente, a ideia de The Crack Pant nasceu como uma tentativa de democratizar o decote do busto. Como a fenda do busto e do bumbum parece muito semelhante, parecia uma oportunidade perdida não enfatizar o último, especialmente se você considerar que apenas metade da população tem seios, enquanto todos têm bumbum”. continuar Karlsson
1- AVAVAV tem alcance internacional, e cada vez mais é citado em sites de moda, ganhando seu espaço e reconhecimento! Você já imaginou que isso poderia acontecer?
Definitivamente foi um ano emocionante e não esperávamos receber tanto apoio de todo o mundo, mas estamos super gratos!
2- O que você deseja e espera para a Avavav em 2022?